A motor with regen is a great addition, especially if you are carrying heavy loads, as it provides a nice smooth braking force without wearing brake pads, all while adding power back into your battery.  But regen hubs are notoriously hard on dropouts, and putting one on aluminum front forks can be a recipe for disaster.

The solution to all of this comes from Grin Technologies with the All Axle hub motor.  This motor was designed from the ground up to be a front regen capable hub that does not rely on the dropouts to contain the torque of the motor.

Putting this motor on through axle suspension forks is a robust solution to the failing dropout problem.  Unlike most hub motors, its also super easy to remove the wheel to fix a flat.  The problem is, there are no through axle forks that fit the 1 1/8 straight steer tube that most hub motor ebikes use.  We have found a solution to this from a small manufacturer called ND Tuned.  They make replacement steer tubes that can be pressed into many suspension forks.

Here is an example where we replaced the basic Suntour spring loaded fork on a Magnum ebike.  It got a customized Manitou Machete air fork with 15mm boost through axle.  The Manitou's tapered steerer was replaced with a 1 1/8 straight steerer.  The Grin all axle motor is a perfect fit with the correct Grin axle adapters.  So now this bike has:

1. A smoother ride with better control up front.

2. Twice the torque and higher top speed.

3. Regen braking

4. easier wheel installation and removal

The ride with these forks is a real upgrade from the stock forks found on most ebikes.  If you have found that your hands and wrists are suffering after a long fast ride, air forks like these, (or the Rockshox Judy gold if you are not adding a motor) really help. 

Here is a link to the custom fork in our webstore.

Begin the installation by removing the stock controller, motor, and display.  

Unplug all of the connectors, including the two down near the motor for the motor and torque sensor.

Motor connector undone

Torque sensor wire undone

The 4-1 cable pulls apart here.

Cut all the cable ties on the wires all the way from the motor to the handlebars.

Unscrew and pull apart the small connectors with the knurled metal rings that go to the brake handles, display, and throttle.

Remove the display.  You will need a 1.5mm Allen key for this.

Take the battery off and remove the small plastic cover by removing one screw near the gold pin.

Then the two screws under the cover come out.  Save these for re use. This one may be an Allen head or Philips #1

Remove this small screw and save it.  

The plastic battery bracket can now be taken off. There will be a wire running to the motor controller, you can pull on this wire to disconnect it, and if this pulls out the controller, that's good, it is coming out anyways.

You may have to pull the controller out with large needle nose pliers. It has all the cables attached, and they have to be pulled through the hole in the frame.  Go ahead and pull all the wires right out.

If the connector to the controller looks something like this, you can leave it in place if it's in good condition, but you may want to replace it with the heavy duty 12ga version that we supply.  Some early bikes had a different molded connector which must be replaced with the one provided in the kit.  Take a close look at the pins that mate with the battery, if they are pitted or blackened at all, replace the connector with the one in the kit.

If you need to replace the electrical connector in the battery bracket remove it now by taking off the big nut and pushing it out. I had trouble removing the nut off the the connector, and ended up ruining the old connector. Note that the connector is keyed and will only insert correctly in one orientation. Make sure it is sitting flat in the bracket before putting on the nut, and don't over tighten the nut, it strips easily.

Align with the tab and make sure its sitting flat

Snug but no more

Bend the wires over so that the bracket can sit down on the frame.

Now you can thread the new battery cable through the same hole in the frame and connect it to the above battery connector.

Replace the top battery bracket.  It can be fiddly to get the bottom screw in and seat the bracket on the frame.  Usually, putting the bottom screw in first does not work, because then you can't seat the bracket against the frame properly.  Also you may have to carefully put a sharp bend in the wires behind the battery connector to get the bracket sitting down against the frame.

Now you can turn the bike over to work on the motor.  Place the handlebar grips on a couple on paperback books to keep from damaging anything on the bars, and place a piece of cardboard under the seat.

Shift the bike into the smallest gear.  Remove the axle bolts with an 18mm box wrench or this special tool.

Remove the safety washer with an Allen key, and on the other side, remove the washer from the recess in the torque arm.  Sometimes you will need needle nose pliers to do this.

You can now remove the rear wheel.  

Remove the brake disc, cassette and tire from the original wheel.  You will need a Shimano cassette removal tool and a chain whip for the cassette.

Remove the kickstand.

Take the time to watch this Grin tech video on installing the GMAC motor.

You will not be using the Grin frame adapters and hose clamps, instead, we have made a custom torque arm for the CCS that allows you to use the welded on tab for the kickstand. If your bike doesn't have the kickstand braze-on you will use the frame clamps as in the video

Note that if you own a CCX, there are two issues that we have run into. There is not enough clearance between the seat tube and the tire to mount the controller as we have on the CCS. It may have to be mounted facing sideways on the seat tube. Also, the kickstand mount could be too far away for the torque arm to attach properly, so a steel extender will have to be fabricated. We are working on making a simple adapter for the CCX as pictured below:

Be very careful when installing the GMAC that you don't pinch the wire in the dropout.  Rotating the motor without fixing the end of the torque arm can easily damage the wire.

Usually the torque arm has to be tapped on.  If you can get some screws started, it will help keep the arm on as you work to seat it. snug the screws up as you work. Don't tighten the screws to seat it, you may damage the threads.

Once you have the arm on, back the screws out and apply blue locktite.

Don't forget to re install the kick stand with the torque arm. Put the new 6mm screw in before tightening the axle nuts.

Don't forget the washer that goes into the recess in the torque sensor on the other side.  You can also re use the safety washer. Tighten the axle bolts and torque arm hardware firmly. Check the torque arm form time to time, they can loosen form the repeated back and forth torque.

Install the downtube bracket on the Baserunner controller.

Install the Baserunner controller as shown.  I have noticed that the potting around the power wire is sometimes lees than perfect, so after all cable ties are installed, I use a little black silicone to seal up anything that looks suspect where the power wire exits the controller.

The control and power wires are routed down around the bottom bracket as shown.  Use cable ties so keep them secured away from the crank.

The motor wire goes this side as shown.

Route the power and control wires up the frame using the braze ons and cable ties.  Tie the motor cable to the chain stay and plug into the motor connector.

The connector with the green strip has to stay connected for the regen braking to work.  I poked it up into the channel below the battery.

Turn the bike right side up and install the Cycle analyst, mode switch and Aux Pot as shown. You do not have to remove the grips and brakes to do this. Do not over tighten the mode switch, it cracks at the hinge if over tightened.  The Aux pot sometimes needs a longer screw to tighten on the handlebar.

Attach the mounting bracket the the Cycle Analyst first.  get the screw holding the bracket onto the CA good and tight, it tends to come loose.  Then remove the Allen screw on the Neco headset cap and place the bracket underneath as shown above.

Pictured from left to right: Throttle cable, torque sensor cable, brake cable, lights cable, battery connector, battery to controller cable.

Plug in the main wire to the controller, the brakes, throttle, keypad, torque sensor (PAS Plug), lights (to the DC power jack) and aux pot.

Figure out where the wires will group and route them together.  if a wire is wrapped around another wire or brake cable, unplug it and route it with the others so that they are all parallel and not a big twisted mess.  This isn't easy, it takes patience.

Once you have the wires somewhat orginized, test the bike to see if it turns on and the throttle, controls, and brakes work.  Look at the PAS setup to see if the torque sensor is working, and zero out any offset in the PAS. First go into the menu by pressing the left key, then press the right key 5 or 6 times to get to the SETUP PAS DEVICE screen.  When you press on the pedal, the voltage should change.  When you pedal forward the P indicator should move to the top and cycle up and down.  It happens so fast it's hard to see.  If you pedal backwards the indicator should go to the bottom.

Go into this menu by pressing and holding the right key then pressing it again to get to PASD ZERO TORQ.  Press and hold the right key to calibrate the torque reading to 0. the voltages will now be the same. This should be done from time to time.

You can now take a test ride to confirm that things are working as they should.  Did you tighten the axle bolts and torque arm?  Better double check!

Once it's confirmed that all is working OK, then you can put dielectric grease in the JST connectors on the CycleAnalyst, and heat shrink them.  Then put the Velcro wrap on. 

Detailed information on how to use the Cycle Analyst can be found here

We have already set up the CA3 to work with the GMAC, Juiced torque sensor and Baserunner.  If you want to change settings, please note the original setting first, and change one thing at a time, as some changes can stop the bike from working altogether.

More to come...

If the power cuts out when you go over a bump, or you have to strap the battery on with Velcro in order for it to work, you may have a bad connection at the battery. The first step in finding out of your bike has this problem is to inspect the connectors on the bike and battery.  The metal pins and sockets that make the electrical connection should look perfect, with no discoloration or pitting, and the plastic parts around them should look undamaged. Sometimes the connector is just loose, and snugging up the big silver nut on both sides will solve it. Not too tight, the plastic threads strip out easily.

Here is a Juiced battery with a damaged connector. The large 19ah juiced batteries are particularly prone to this. The connector has to be replaced, and it is usually a good idea to replace both the bike and battery sides at once.

The bike side is easy, just remove the plastic bracket that includes the battery locking mechanism from the bike, there is a vertical screw, visible in this picture, and another that is sometimes under a removable cover.  Loosen off the large silver nut on the connector, and press out the connector. 

Usually there is a way to unplug the wire attached to the connector from the motor controller.  If not, you will need to solder the new connector on, making sure to get the positive and negative leads on the correct pins, the back of the connector is marked for this. Red is usually +.

Note that the connector is keyed, and can only go into the hole in one orientation.  Be sure to get the connector fully seated in the bracket before carefully threading the nut on, and just snug the nut up, as overtightening it will strip the plastic threads. 

Hilleater now has heavy duty versions of these connectors. The bike side has 12ga wire and an XT60 female connector on it, and the battery side has no wire.  These connectors have gold plated pins to resist corrosion, and they have larger solder cups that are much easier to solder wire into.  They also have a larger thread on the retaining nut that is to not as prone to stripping out.

A set can be found here, a single male here, and a single female here.  These connectors are backwards compatable with the originals, so you don't necessarily have to replace both sides.

Now on to the battery:

For the battery side, first make sure that the battery is turned off.  This will disable the output of the battery management system (BMS) so that there is no voltage present at the connector.  

Some batteries do not have this switch, and the output connector is always live. Check if there is a fuse that could be unplugged, or if there is an inline connector that could be unplugged.

If you cannot unplug or disconnect and there is no switch, then you will be working with a live connector, and you have to be extra careful to not let the two output wires touch during this repair. I always check for voltage with a DVM or multimeter before proceeding.

With this Juiced battery the power switch can be disconnected to make the repair easier, just disconnect the black plastic JST inline connector with the four small wires.

Here the switch connector is removed.  Peel off the glue from the back of the output connector before removing the nut on the outside.

The old connector removed and ready to be replaced.

Here I have cut the red wire off, slipped on a piece of heat shrink tubing, and stripped back 1/4" of insulation. Push the heat shrink as far away from the end of the wire as possible, so that it doesn't shrink as you are soldering.  To minimize the possibility of a short circuit, never allow even the POSSIBILITY that the red and blue conductors can touch.  I do this by completing the repair one wire at a time, and insulating the connections as I go.

Here I am using a "helping hand" soldering aid to hold the wire in place for soldering.  Use a temperature controlled soldering iron, or a soldering gun, and flux core solder.

Make sure that the solder joint covers all of the wire, not just one side.  Try to do this a quickly as you can so as not to overheat the plastic connector.  Start with getting the solder into the wire, then the connector.

Heat shrink the first connection before moving on to the next to prevent the possibility of a short circuit..  The pins are close enough together that a drip of solder could bridge them when you are making the second connection. If there is no on/off switch on your battery, this would result in at the minimum a blown fuse, but possibly a fried BMS, or a battery fire.

I apply hot glue around the back of the connector to help prevent water ingress.

Don't forget to re attach the switch wires. I apply a bead of silicone on the Juiced batteries before re assembling the top cap, as there is no gasket to keep water out.  On the Hilleater batteries there is a gasket, so this is not necessary.  Wear gloves, and wipe off the excess as soon as the screws are tightened.  Its hard to get all the silicone off, but persistence pays off.  I have found that if you let the silicone dry, then try to cut or peel it off, it can come right out of the seam. Test the battery voltage output to make sure that you got the polarity correct before installing it back on the bike.

Finished!

https://the2pt5.net/david-elderton

This adapter allows you to plug into the battery for your Hilleater, Juiced and many other e-bikes to access the stored power!

For a power outage maybe the most common need would be a USB outlet to power up your phone, and possibly a laptop, some LED lights, medical equipment, the list goes on.  

The most efficient way to power these devices is to supply them with exactly the DC voltage that they require, instead of using an inverter to supply 120V household AC voltage from the battery, which then is converted back down to a lower voltage by the power supply for the device. This is an extra step of voltage conversion, and each step results in a loss of some power to heat in the converter, usually about 10-15%

Any device with a separate power supply can be powered up using a DC-DC converter supplying the correct voltage, using the correct connector. 

Look at the bottom of the power supply on your laptop, and you will see the output listed as something like 19.5V, 3.33A, 65W. 

A common "wall wart" power supply.  Look on the label for the output voltage, and make sure it is DC, not AC

A programmable DC-DC converter like the DPS5020 (available on eBay) will take an input voltage of 6-60VDC, perfect for 24,36,48 or 52V ebike batteries, and output 0-50VDC at up to 20 amps. The output voltage has to be lower than the input by about 3V.  I like this unit because it is easy to set the output voltage and amperage, you can store a number of different output profiles, and it shows the input voltage so you can keep track of the state of charge of your battery. Oh, and it is reasonably well built

In the case of my laptop, I set The DPS5020 to 19.5V and 3.5A. As long as you have the correct plug you can just connect directly to your device from the output of the DC-DC converter. If you only need one voltage, like the 12-14.5V that powers so many automotive accessories you can use a fixed voltage DC-DC converter, they generally cost less.

Here is a DIY metal case that you can buy for the DPS5020 to make it a stand alone power supply.

If you are not building the DPS2050 into a battery box, it needs to be mounted it a protective case, as the circuit board is just hanging off the back of the display. I got this little case to protect the board and provide handy jacks to hook up to. The whole package of electronics and case costs less than 100.00.

For projects like this I suggest getting a basic digital multimeter if you don't already have one, They are available at any hardware store or online for 6 to 40 dollars. With this you can check the actual voltage and polarity of the power supply that you are replacing and the same with your new adapter before you plug anything in to avoid damaging your equipment.  

This Multimeter is just $6.29 with free shipping on eBay.

Extra power jacks for many devices can be found on Ebay or Amazon, or better yet in a bin at your local thrift shop, ready to be cut off the attached power supply and connected to the output of your DC-DC converter.

For USB some ebike batteries have a USB charging connector built in.  The Juiced and Hilleater bikes do not have it live though, as there was a problem with the USB circuit draining the battery while in storage, leading to damaged batteries. The easiest way to get USB power from your ebike battery is to use a DC-DC converter like the DPS5020 to get 12V, then use a commonly available in-car USB adapter to get the 5V USB power.

Cut the alligator clips off this and wire it to your DC-DC converter.

Some appliances will only accept 120V AC power to run, and you can also power these up with the use of an inverter connected to your battery.  The inverter input voltage has to match your ebike battery, so the commonly available 12V inverters are not applicable, except for low power applications, where you could use a DC-DC converter like the DPS2050 to give you 12V to power up the inverter.  I would not recommend this for anything more than 100 Watts though, as a 12V inverter will draw about 10 amps at 100 Watts, and could overload the DC-DC converter.  Better to get a 36 or 48V inverter that will plug directly into the battery. 

I can recommend the WZRELB Reliable brand inverters from eBay, as they are cheap, reasonably well built, have a true sine wave output, and come in various input voltages.

The power ratings are a bit optimistic though, so I would get a higher output rating than you think that you need, especially to run anything with a motor, like a fridge.  The 500 Watt reliable would not run our fridge, the 1500W model handles it with no problem for about $230.00 Canadian including shipping. (174.00 USD) Brand name 36 and 48V inverters like the Cotek are better built, but much more expensive.  If you use the inverter all the time and rely on it, I would consider one of these.

Speaking of fridges, how long would your ebike battery run your fridge?  Of course it depends on your fridge, and your battery, but our fridge consumes 38 watt hours per hour, so just over 1 kilowatt in 24 hours.  A 500 watt hour battery would run it for about 10 hours, which includes the 10% loss through the inverter and some room at the bottom, as it's not good for the battery to run it all the way down.

Not sure how much power your fridge or any other device that uses 120V household power uses?  Get one of these, it will tell you!

Electricity power consumption meter Less than $20.00 on eBay.

How to figure out how many Watt hours your battery is? Multiply the voltage X the amp hours to get watt hours.  you will get a bit less than this, because the manufacturers rate the cells discharing all the way to 2.5V, but most ebike batteries cut out at 3.0V per cell to protect the cells. Also, as the battery ages, or if it is cold it will give you less watt hours.  1000 watt hours is one kilowatt hour.

For camping, extended power outages, or the zombie apocalypse you will need a way to charge the battery without the use of your regular plug in charger.  Solar is the way to go, and I have found an inexpensive solar charge controller that will boost the voltage of a typical solar panel up to the voltage required to charge your battery. 

I also have lightweight 90W portable solar panels that have twice the output voltage of comparable panels by using split cells.  These, combined with the above charge controller will charge your batteries more efficiently than the more commonly available "12V" panels as the 30V output doesn't have to be stepped up as much. The further the the voltage has to be converted, the more loss there is. When directly oriented to full sun these will fully charge your depleted 500 Watt hour e-bike battery in about 8 hours, or use two for a 4 hour charge. The charge controller will accept up to three of these panels wired in parallel.

If this idea interests you, I would consider building a power pack that will house your battery, and any other equipment like the DC-DC converter, plugs, switches charge controller etc to make it all work.  The great thing about this project, is that you already have the most expensive part, the battery from your bike!  A tool box will often make a good case for this project, or if you need it to be waterproof, then a Pelican case is also good, although somewhat more expensive. 

I built this power box using a Pelican case and an old but high capacity custom made ebike battery. It powers up a small 12V trolling motor in our canoe.  It has waterproof connectors and accepts charging from solar panels.

If you want to include an inverter in the box, you will have to cool it with a fan and venting so that the inverter does not overheat in the closed box.  A larger inverter could also be mounted on the outside of the box. 

To get an idea of what is involved in building a DIY power box take a look at this video by Jehu. In our case though we can skip the lithium cells and battery management system, because we are using the e-bike battery. 

Be aware that you would have to change some other components of this system as he is using 24V, but our battery will be 36, 48 or 52V.

The original Juiced Bike!  Back when they were called Juiced Riders, this was their first e-bike, and it remains popular today with a dedicated bunch of owners who appreciate the bikes rugged reliability and great utility.  

The later models came with three battery capacities, 15, 23 and 32 ah.  The battery is no longer being made, and old stock has run out.  

To keep U500s on the road, we are offering a replacement battery pack that will slide into the original case.  It has all of the correct connectors, so replacement is plug and play. As always with large lithium batteries, extreme care must be taken in ensuring that the battery is installed correctly, if in doubt, contact your local e-bike shop for installation.  

The battery cells are the Panasonic 18650PF, these are 10A rated in a 13S8P configuration, so they will have an easy life in this bike. We even include a new USB board to keep the USB charging functionality.

We have 23ah packs ready to ship at CAD$999.00 plus DG shipping to Canada at 85.00.

For USA customers this translates to about US$855.00 including shipping.  If you are in the USA  or Australia we will be drop shipping the pack directly from the manufacturer in China.  

By Popular demand we have 32ah packs coming at CAD$1499.00, please check the battery listings here if you are interested.

Installation instructions:  If you are unsure of any part of this procedure contact us, or visit your local e-bike shop for help.  Lithium batteries can be extremely dangerous if not handled, connected and installed properly.

1. Turn the battery off, then unscrew the metal ring on the power connector, and pull it off of the battery.
2.  Unbolt the battery from the bike. There are 4 Allen head screws, you will need a metric Allen wrench set. The bracket holding the tail light will come off as well. Slide the battery out the back of the bike.

3. Remove the four Allen screws holding the connection panel on.

4. Pull the panel away from the case.

5. Disconnect all of the wires.  There are two connections on the USB, two or four main power wires, red and black with in-line bullet connectors, a 7 pin JST in-line connector for the charge wires, and a 2 pin in-line JST connector for the power switch

6. Now is a good time to clean the connections on the charge port.  These can be a problem if you ride in the rain.  Use a small drill bit or steel wire to scrape the inside of the connector, and use some contact cleaner or WD40 to spray into the connector to clean and protect the contacts.  Also pull the fuses out and check for corrosion.  I use dielectric grease to protect the connections when re-inserting the fuses.

7. Remove the Philips screws on the bottom of the case near the connection panel that hold the aluminum bars on the inside of the case. Remove the bars and grommets from the case.

8. Save any foam pads that are stuck to the old battery pack behind the bars, you will re use these.

9. Now you will be able to slide the pack out of the case.

10. Check the new pack for fit in your case.  Stick the supplied foam strips onto the top of the battery if there is enough room for them to prevent rattles.  They may not be needed, if not leave them off.

11. There is a small circuit board included with your new pack, it replaces the USB board attached to the back of the connection panel. Two small Philips screws hold it on. Remove the original and replace it with the new one.

12. Connect all of the remaining wires to the new pack.  Red to red and black to black for the large power wires.  If your case had only two large power wires, use either of the two red, and either of the two black wires from the new pack, and tape up end the remaining two wires so there is no chance of them shorting. The four conductor wire that comes from the DC-DC converter that is mounted on the end of the new battery connects to the new USB board., the other two 2 conductor wires plug into the switch wires, and the 7 pin JST connector is for the charge port.  The connectors only go together one way, be careful to plug them in the right way around.

13. Place any foam pads on the new case as they were on the old.  under the blue DC-DC converter, not on top of it.  These pads hold the battery form sliding around, you don't want to be pushing on the DC-DC converter, but the battery itself.

14. Slide the new pack into the case, and replace the two aluminum bars with gaskets in front of the pack.  The foam blacks should secure the pack from moving in the case.

15.  Test that the power switch activates the battery. The green LED should illuminate around the switch.

16. Replace the connector panel, making sure that the grommet is properly in place to seal against water ingress, and no wires are pinched between the case and the connector panel. Do not over tighten the 4 screws holding the cover, as it will pinch the grommet and squeeze it out. They should be firmly and evenly tightened, just watch the grommet.

17. Replace the battery and tail light, Re attach the case to the bike, and don't forget to re attach the power cable to the battery!

The Vancouver Electric Vehicle Association puts on this exhibition of everything electric every year in downtown Vancouver.  

The location is the Roundhouse Community Center, at the foot of Davie St near False Creek.  Ride your bike, the location is just a block off of the sea wall, and there will be valet bike parking, and free admission!

August 24th 10am till 6pm

www.electrafest.ca

We will have the Juiced CrossCurrent S and Ocean Current, the Hilleater Galiano and Galiano ST, and the Ezee Sprint available for test rides.

Clicking sounds can also come from the pedals or bottom bracket, so try to eliminate these as a source of the noise first. 

We now have this part in stock:  https://hilleater.ca/bafang-cassette-freewheel-and-side-cover-assembly-swx02/

Removing or replacing the rear wheel is best done with the bike upside down.  Place it on some pads or carpet to protect the finish, and put some spacers under the ends of the handlebars so that the display doesn't hit the floor, or rotate the display out of the way.

It is easier to get the wheel off if you change to derailleur to 9th gear.

To remove the wheel start by cutting the cable tie holding the wires that run to the motor.

Next pull apart the large connector that carries the phase and sensor wires to the motor.

Remove the rubber axle caps.  I like to put the parts from each side of the axle in a separate row on the workbench so that there is no doubt about the order that they go back on later.

Remove the 18mm nuts from both sides of the axle.  This can be done with the special tool available from us here

or with a good open end wrench, being careful to hold the tool square to the nut, and as fully inserted as possible.

Remove the washer from its recessed location by prying on one side then the other until you can grab it with needle nose pliers or your fingers.  The nuts and washers have to be completely removed off the axle to get the wheel off.

On the disc side remove the hex screw that holds the safety washer on, and remove the washer.

You can now remove the wheel.  The chain has to be moved sideways to clear the axle.

At this point if you have the tools, it's easier to remove the cassette.  Of course the replacement side cover and cassette tower does not come with a cassette, so you will have to remove the original cassette and place it on the new tower once the motor is back together. You will need a Shimano freewheel tool that has a hole in it large enough to clear the axle.  We have this tool in stock here. and a chain whip.

This Park tool CP-1 is a good tool.  The cheaper ones tend to break.

The side cover can be removed without removing the cassette, but it is easier to first remove it. The machine screws will be either philips head, or Torx #20.  If it's the philps be very careful not to strip the head.  Use a good screwdriver with lots of downwards pressure, and hold the driver straight on to the screw.

Keep careful track of where the hardware goes. On this motor there is a thin washer, then two nuts, then a thick washer. There are other variations depending on when your motor was made.

Use a 17 mm wrench to remove the two nuts, then remove the washer underneath.

The side cover screws either Philips head, or Torx T25 security screws, for which you will need a specialty bit.  These are usually available at Canadian Tire in a kit. When the last screw is removed the cover will come loose. Sometimes it is stiff sliding off the axle, but it will come.

Now the side cover will slide off, and can be replaced.  It can be hard to slide off the axle, but it will come off.  We don't replace just the cassette freewheel because it's almost impossible to get the little philips screws that hold it to the side cover off without stripping the heads, so we replace the side cover as well. 

If your motor has a few thousand km on it this would be a good time to re grease the gears.  The motor core will slide out of the hub casing at this point to get at the gears.  Use a white grease compatible with nylon.

To put things back together simply go through the steps in reverse.  First install the new side cover, then the washer, and two nuts, just snugging the first nut, then locking the next against it, then the next washer.  Re install the freewheel and torque the locking ring to 40Nm, which is good and tight, but don't be a hero!  Reseat the wheel on the bike, paying attention that the disc slides between the brake pads as the wheel goes on.  The cut out in the axle for the wire faces down, as do the lobes in the anti rotation washers.   Be sure that on the cassette side the washer inserts into the recess in the torque sensor before tightening the nut.

Don't forget the rubber caps on both sides. Slide the electrical connector together, paying attention to the arrows that indicate the correct orientation. Cable tie the wires to the braze on, just snug.

Interested it this 72V,  80+ km/h capable dual motor Catrike? See my Endless Sphere posts:

 https://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=...

I am considering doing some of these conversions for sale, I can't say enough about the performance!

With 72V, 1400 watt hours of Samsung 18650 25R cells on board, I probably could have made the whole ride in the built in battery, but to avoid the chance of running out, I put an idea to the test, and it worked really well. 

I mounted a DC-DC boost converter in a box, and put it in the pannier, along with a 12.8 ah 48V juiced battery pack.  For long, expedition style rides, this DC converter is a great tool, as you can charge any battery from another battery, as long as the battery being charged has higher voltage than the other.  

You could also use this rig to charge your ebike battery from your 12V car starting battery while the engine is running.  The Voltage up to 120V and amperage up to 15A are easily programmed via the built in buttons and display. I would not exceed about 450 Watts to keep things reliable.

Search "900W Digital DC-DC Output 10 120V 15A Step up Power Module" on Ebay

There are DC-DC converters that will do the opposite as well.

DC-DC down converter Search "DPS5020" on Ebay

I set the DC-DC converter to 80V (about 80% charge on the 72V pack built into the Catrike) and about 1.25 amps, so that the 72V battery would charge from the 48V pack at about 100 Watts.  The idea is that once the main battery gets down to 80% charge, it starts to get a 100 watt charge from the auxiliary pack.  The 100 Watt rate is easy for the smaller pack to maintain, and you will get all of the Watt hours available (minus about 10% for conversion losses in the DC-DC converter.) This worked really well.  Over the next 6 hours of riding, the 48V pack slowly discharged into the 72V pack, lessening the load on the main pack, and extending its charge by about 5-600 watt hours.

The Trans Canada Trail above Langford.  Trail conditions vary, a mountain bike is preferable. The trike is a lot of fun on these trails

The Kinsol trestle on the Trans Canada Trail between Shawnigan Lake and Cowichan River Provincial Park 

This is a killer drivetrain upgrade that includes a Shimano Deore derailleur with Shadow RD+ stabilizer.  This unit acts as a clutch, not allowing the chain to go slack and bounce off over bumps on 1X setups like the CCS.

We have found that installing this upgrade can lead to better, more responsive torque sensing performance. The CrossCurrent S relies on chain tension to sense torque, and this kit keeps the chain under much better control than the stock setup

Other advantages:

More precise shifting.  The deore group set features high precision build quality. 

Wider gear range with a 11-36 tooth cassette instead of 11-32 gives you a lower 1st speed.

SRAM Powerlock chain is easy to remove for cleaning etc with the quick release link.

The kit includes:

Shimano Deore RD-M6000 Rear derailleur 10sp GS Black.

Shimano Deore SL-M6000-R Shift lever 10sp Black.

Shimano CS-HG50-10 10sp. cassette 11-36T

SRAM PC-1031 10sp chain 120 links, Powerlock

SRAM Powerlock extra powerlock link to extend the chain.

For installation you will need a chain whip, a shimano cassette removal tool, a metric hex key set, the special juiced 18mm axle nut removal tool, (or a good box end 18mm wrench) and cutters to trim the shift cable. Please let us know if you think these tools should be included as options with this kit...

We are offering the kit at a substantial discount from the list price of 360.00 and free shipping.